Great Villages, Great Forts and Great-Grandfathers

Friday, September 30, 2016

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Great Villages, Great Forts and Great-Grandfathers

For us … around every corner … new places, new experiences and new foods. Poutine is a dish unique to the area … French fries, cheese curds and gravy … and… actually good. Picture taken at Governer's Pub and Eatery in Sydney, Cape Breton.

 The Fortress of Louisbourg

The Fortress of Louisbourg is a National Historic Site of Canada and is the location of a one-quarter partial reconstruction of an 18^th century  French fortress and supporting town at Louisbourg on the east side of Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia. This one has materialized from the ground fully grown … originally destroyed by conquering forces. Captured by British colonists in 1745, it was returned to the French in exchange for border towns in what is today Belgium. Not having the communication resources we have today and not knowing that the French had legal right to it … was captured again in 1758 by British forces, after which its fortifications were systematically destroyed by British engineers. Its two sieges, especially that of 1758, were turning points in the Anglo-French struggle for what today is Canada.

Partially reconstructed in the 1960s and 1970s, the fort using some of the original stonework, which provided jobs for unemployed coal miners. … entirely from excavated foundations, 1000s of letters, drawings, painting and architectural drawings found in Quebec and France. This photo is of the reconstructed village next to the Fortress.

For us the most amazing role was the peoples of the 18th century who inhabited this place. They graciously transported us back in time to share what it was like to live and work here. Pictures say more than words here with a French Friar and a French Friar.

Heritage and Discovery

The travels from here out focus on longings to connect with my personal heritage ... Scottish and French. What I knew was that both my father's parents were born in Nova Scotia … specifically Digby. What I discovered was amazing. Grandfather was actually born in Denmark, Nova Scotia and Grandmother was born in Meteghan River, Nova Scotia.  It was with great delight that we hopped around the western slope of NS, checking out genealogy centers and graveyards … learning more and more about my ancestors … actually meeting cousins with the same last names.

There was so much to absorb and it needs to be written and organized. If anyone, (not including immediate family) with the surnames Forbes, Langille, Boudreau, Mingo or Cameron are interested, let me know you would like a copy, as I will be sending the collection of information to our family only.

Halifax

A visit to NS needs to include Halifax and although driving around any large city is a hassle, we learned in advance that parking anywhere was $3.00 CAD an hour or $16 a day. We accidentally discovered a secret way to park for $3 a day! Driving around Halifax was not something Dan wanted to do, so we headed up to the hill to tour the Citadel first. We parked there for $3 which was good until 5:00 p.m. Therefore, from the Citadel, we walked the six blocks down to the docks and back much later … seeing a good bit of the city as well as the boardwalk and the Citadel. In the picture you can see where we walked down to the shoreline of the city.

The Citadel

The Citadel is on the hill above Halifax. The Citadel was so well built to protect Halifax Harbour that it was never attacked. A six pointed star surrounded by a second wall and all dug into the top of the hill … this fortress was impregnable. Amazing construction and crafty planning by the British. There are displays and tours and a load of enactors to interact with. These fellas are really tall. I’m not that short.

 

The artwork in the city of Halifax was incredible. These pictures are from the Halifax Boardwalk. The street musician is playing a gaelic harp.

 

 

 

The street art is also amazing.

Halifax West KOA

We need to mention the best campground we’ve ever found. Of all the campgrounds in North America that we have seen ... this is far and away the most enjoyable, the cleanest and the most beautiful and we wished we could have been here more than two days. Upper Sackville, Nova Scotia Campground Halifax West KOA

  Collecting license plates ... Germany and Switzerland. These didn’t drive over.

 

Next … Tidal Bores and 40 foot tides.

What We Discovered

Citadel National Historic Site - Citadel Hill, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Fortress Louisbourg - 259 Park Service Road, Louisbourg, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada

 Comments

That's how I feel sometimes From Deb Gillman, on Oct 7, 2016 at 07:08PM

 

Nova Scotia and the Cabot Trail

Tuesday, September 27, 2016

Iona, Nova Scotia, Canada

 A Last bit of NL and then Nova Scotia !!!

Tablelands

As we head west in Newfoundland, we think about all the places we did not see, and realize, 13 days in NL is not enough. Back again across NL heading west  to Gros Morne National Park, we want to see the earth's mantle exposed. We arrive at the Tablelands just south of Gros Morne, by a long winding tree lined road along water … lots of water. We stopped at the Discovery Center and at this late time in the season, we are the only ones there with three park employees to chat with, learn from and be entertained by. One strummed on his guitar, the other showed us to a large auditorium with a film about the earth’s mantle and its orange rock, and the other told us where to find great food at the other side of the tablelands. In the midst of miles and miles of Spruce and Fir, the Tablelands stand out in a barren beauty.

 We took a short hike to a great view, looking for pitcher plants … did not see any, but I took a picture of a giant one in the center that they use to educate children. As there were no children there, the park ranger explained the pitcher plant to us and showed how it thrived on insects.

 

  

Trout River

That restaurant ... The Seaside in Trout River. Wow … the most delicious cod and scrumptious chowder, caught the night before right there in the inlet off the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The picture is the view from our table ... at the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

The next night we sleep in the parking lot of the ferry dock as our passage is the next morning to Nova Scotia from Port aux Basques, NL. The next morning a ’06 Roadtrek pulls in right behind us in line and we have a lovely visit with Pat and Tony from Ottawa, sharing our adventures in NL and our love of our Roadtreks.

On the way across the Cabot Strait, the sea was calm, the sky was clear as we watched a pod of porpoises breaching the water. A wonderful crossing as we sat at a table at the very bow of the ship on the 7th level deck. The view was mesmerizing and meditative.

On the ferry (these things are HUGE) we befriended a lovely couple, Dan and Thelma, who have a house on Saunders Bay in Newfoundland’s Northern Peninsula. We may even have driven by their house a couple weeks ago. They were so friendly and shared some great things about NL and what it is like living there ... with whales on their beach frequently and the salt and the wind and how beautiful it is all the time. They go to St. John’s NL for the winter.

The passage was 10 hours counting waiting, loading, going and by the time we disembarked, it was bedtime … so North Sydney, Nova Scotia, Walmart here we come.

Nova Scotia (NS)

September 24, 2016 – 5 ½ weeks into our trip and a plan that was conceived 50 years ago. Now that we are in Nova Scotia … the focus in on heritage. Vicki’s grandparents on her father’s side were born in Nova Scotia. It has been about 50 years since Vicki wished to visit Nova Scotia someday. Living the Dream! More about the ancestry exploration later.

Cabot Trail in Cape Breton

Cape Breton Island is part of Nova Scotia … the north islands … so amazing … so many places to stop and just say Ahhhhh. These are the ones we chose in order of travel ... traveling the Cabot Trail counter-clockwise … north to west then south.

•  Gaelic College in St. Anne’s Bay – the only college in N. America devoted to the study and preservation of Gaelic Language and Culture. Found lots of Forbes objects and tartans.
• Clucking Hen Café – scrumptious gingerbread with caramel sauce, and blueberry scones.
• Cape Breton National Park headquarters – Ingonish Beach, took a bike ride to shake up the bones and get the blood running, walked on the sandy beach.

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Continental Fault Lookover – this foggy valley is the Aspy Fault. This is the place 350 million  years ago when Africa was connected to North America as part of the Pangaea Land Mass. it was probably created when two continental plates collided and pushed the seafloor upwards, also creating the Appalachian Mountains ... which run all the way up to Nova Scotia and into the sea. 

The map is Pangaea. Hello Africa ... the yellow arrow points to where we are ... the Aspy Fault. The foggy valley picture is that spot.·         

       

     

 Also on the west side, we discover the opulent French. The flag is Acadian (more later on these people.) The flag at the house is the French Flag with an added star in the upper corner … which now makes it the Acadian Flag.

On the west side of Cabot Trail, the most amazing sunset greeted us.

Camped overnight at National Park campground at Cheticamp on the west side of Cabot Trail. 

 

Took a tiny ferry upon leaving Cape Breton … $7 … 5 minutes from loading to unloading … over to Iona.

Highland Village in Iona

This living history village introduces us to not only the history of the Scots in NS, but also a example of how to do Living History! The townspeople in the village were there in heart and soul. You were actually talking to a Scotswoman in 1750 in a sod house and a weaver in 1810.

The gentleman in the blacksmith shop is not an actor … actually a blacksmith.

The farmer responsible for all the animals and vegetable gardens.

 We participated in working the cloth with the voice of a wonderful Gaelic girl who sang along. "Waulking" of homemade cloth for household use was carried out by pounding the material against a board by a few women who sat around a table singing a song, working the stiff freshly woven cloth, and passing it around the table in a circle. We had seen this in the television series “Outlander”. If you have read the book or seen the show … you would know what unpleasant liquid they used to soften the cloth.

Next … a few days in Nova Scotia … tracking down ancestors and soaking up the spirit of the Island.

 

Comments

Wish I could be there with you. Post pictures of ancestor gravestones if you find them. Love, Wendy From Wendy Rector, on Oct 2, 2016 at 05:43PM

YES... yes found lots of them, found grandfather's and great grandfather's headstones. Will organize soon. On Oct 2, 2016 2:44 PM, wrote: From Dan & Vicki, on Oct 2, 2016 at 11:10PM

Newfoundland 6 - Music, Dance, Chocolate and a Mermaid

Sunday, September 25, 2016

St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada

Music, Dance, Chocolate and a Mermaid

Our 10th day in Newfoundland finds us in St. John's, the capital city. We arrived on September 20, 2016.

Our last blog was one of thorny experiences without pictures and only seemed to be one of problems and dilemmas. However, we’ve learned that problems are only situations that the mind applies negative thoughts to. So it developed into a chance to stop and rest and relax and trust that the difference is being underneath the clouds or above them. Above the clouds one sees nothing but problems and difficulties imagined below the clouds. Being underneath them is to experience the situation moment by moment, aware that all is change and being in control is only an illusion.

Permit me one more bit of philosophy … we’re realizing that researching and learning about a place, imagining it when seeing pictures or videos of a place, slowly but surely becomes reality. Newfoundland has always been an unreality, only fabricated in the mind … Until it becomes a reality and shatters all those imaginings.  The mind cannot possibly come near the reality. It is only being in a place, smelling it, seeing it, hearing it, talking to the people who actually live here, breathe in the air of the place …. then the heart becomes part of the entire experience. Then … only then … does reality develop and a sense of awe and wonder emerges.

St. John’s, The Capital of Newfoundland and Labrador

We left Gander (which is about in the center of this island Province) and headed east towards St. John’s, the capital of NL. The entire population of NL is about 500,000. 25% live in St. John’s. In fact, 50% of the peoples of NL live in the Avalon … eastern part of the Island.

St. John's, a city on Newfoundland island off Canada's Atlantic coast. Its harbour was settled by the British in the 1600s. Downtown is known for its colourful row houses.

Driving into St. John’s we were instantly confused. We hit St. John’s in a whirl of traffic and meandering, narrow streets that changed names at the drop of a curve … streets that were never designed for cars. The first thing we happened upon was the Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist of the Catholic Church. With a screech of brakes we stopped and it was open. The Newfoundlanders surely know how to build churches!!! Moreover, this church, the Anglican Cathedral, the Masonic Temple, and the Presbyterian Church are all established in the same few blocks … and history reports that the competition was in the field of education and hospitals … all providing the city of St. John’s with great enduring service. The Anglican Cathedral just a block away is also called St. John the Baptist.

At this point, to save Dan’s nerves and Vicki’s confusion … even when following the GPS ... we parked the Coyote and hit the sidewalks. Around every corner was a marvel.

This statue on George Street is of music and dance. It was tall … about 15 feet. I’ve taken pictures of parts of it. I loved the dancers and violinist.

 

Also found Soldier Memorial honoring soldiers in wars for the last 100 years.

 

A mural on a wall near a small theater … Applause.

 

The colors proliferate here … and the names of the colors are significant, not random. For example:

·      Harbour Deep – an emerald green named after the recently resettled Northern Peninsular community of the same name.

·      Dark Tickle – a rich azure recalling tickles, narrow water channels that see little sunlight because of their high, enclosing hills.

·      Dory Buff – is the traditional hue of dories, a shade of rusty gold said to keep the craft visible against grey skies and seas.

Chocolate and a Princess

Chocolate is honored here … all right! We imbibed at the Newfoundland Chocolate Company. And here we found a chocolate tale about Trinitaria. She is painted in three shades of chocolate in this statue.

The Chocolate Mermaid

Legend speaks of a magical land deep within the rainforests of Venezuela … a land of chocolate trees and chocolate rivers, chocolate lakes and chocolate waterfalls. The ruler of this fabled land, the great chocolate king Criollo had a young daughter named Trinitaria. As a girl, Princess Trinitaria would play under the groves of cacao trees and swim in the chocolate rivers and lakes. One evening the sea beckoned Trinitaria and as she sat on the golden beach gazing out over a magnificent sunset, a magical wave swept over her, transforming her into a chocolate mermaidian form. Trinitaria then set out to swim the seven seas to bring the gift of chocolate to all the lands of the world. One day she reached the shores of a northern isle of unparalleled natural beauty. A land of fresh ocean breezes, blue skies and hills blanketed with sweet, sun ripened berries. Trinitaria fell in love with this New Founde Lande and to this day you may catch a glimpse of her frolicking in the waves or surfacing to enjoy a beautiful Newfoundland sunset.

Signal Hill

We visited Signal Hill with Cabot Tower on top. A gentle walk up from the visitor center (even found a geocache along the way). This tower is historically significant for dozens of reasons: protection of the harbour against the French and against the English – based on whoever had control. Bivouac for soldiers in WWII. 

Cabot Tower

Cabot Tower is on top of the hill. A gentle walk up the hill from the visitor center. John Cabot the explorer left his name everywhere. Cabot Strait is between Newfoundland and Nova Scotia ... the waterway that spills out into the Atlantic Ocean.

It is also the first location where a wireless signal was received from England to the New World engineered by the inventive Marconi. This makes a good story when you research it. They had a display in the tower about the wireless signal and Marconi.

St. John's from Signal Hill

Looking out to the downtown of St. John's from the Hill. Note the large Basilica at upper right of photo above the red building.

Cape Spear

Cape Spear is the farthermost eastern site on the North American Continent. So we had to go out there! The view of the Atlantic Ocean is spectacular. We saw whales spouting and took some pictures of the iconic red Klondike chairs (found all over Newfoundland).

The two lighthouses … old and new … are fascinating. The new one is still in operation.  There are two Cape Spear Lighthouses. The old one, far right in the distance, operated for 70 years before being replaced by the new one at the left. The old one included the light-keeper's home, in the center of the picture, for him and his family. The family stayed with the house for 3 generations.

And … some unusual signs. Screech is a a rum made in NL. Note the sign painted under the car. 

 

THis sign is outside a gaming store.



 Next … head east back to the western side of NL. Planning on a couple stops and then to the ferry back to Nova Scotia.