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Friday, November 2, 2018

St. Petersburg, Florida Trip Journal #17 … October 30, 2018

St. Petersburg, Florida     
Trip Journal #17 … October 30, 2018


St. Pete

We plan one day in St. Petersburg. Three places is our goal: the Sunken Gardens, Salvador Dali Museum and the Chihuly Collection. All three opened at 10:00 a.m. so we arrived at the Gardens at 10 and spent two hours there. Then we headed over to Dali’s place and did not leave until almost 5:00 p.m. Therefore, Chihuly missed us. We have been to his home studios in Washington at Tacoma and Seattle, marveled at all the glass works, and experienced the demonstration works there, so we know what we missed here.

Sunken Gardens

These gardens have been a landmark in St. Pete since 1935 when it became public. In 1903, George Turner, Sr. a plumber who was also an avid gardener purchased four acres with a shallow sinkhole filled with water and an ancient rich soil. 

American Beauty Berry. East & Central United States


Persian Shield ... Southeast Asia




Draining the lake, he began his garden with fruits and exotic plants from all over the world. The city of St. Pete now owns it and fully restored to its former beauty, we can stroll and discover this place of wonder ... down 15 feet below street level. So beautiful ... so enjoy the pictures!

Garden Croton Hybrid - Indonesia, Malaysia, South America


Crown of Thorns -- Madagascar  

See thorny stems and blood drop flowers


Even the Animals are Beautiful! 


Koi











Yellow Shrimp Plant - South America


Angel's Trumpet - South America
















Girl's Back















Salvador Dali

Like almost everyone else, we only think of Dali as a surrealist. However, only 9 years of his life did he delve into the surrealist movement. Trained as a classical artist and returning to that style after his experimental period, his work reveals his considerable talent. Even when painting beyond surrealism, his work contains evidence of his deep imagination. 

Most of his paintings require hours to pore over and perceive deeper meanings and nuances. Guidance by the docent becomes requisite to see into his unique mind and themes across the years.  I love the detail he uses. 

As amateur artists, both Dan and I both enthused to get back to our acrylics and brushes. Hello Annie.

Disintegration of the Persistence of Memory

The "Disintegration of the Persistence of Memory" painting could also be labeled ... "Getting Old". 😋










Even the building is amazing. Built to withstand a category 5 hurricane and with the entire collection on the third floor, the structure astounds. Outside we also find a mathematical garden and a full hedge labyrinth. 













Clyde Butcher

Sure enough to tie our travels together in an elegant portrait, we come across Clyde Butcher again as he travels to Catalonia, Spain to photograph Dali’s inspirational home and environment. This display in the museum includes a filmed interview with Butcher as we learn more of his life and art. We remember Butcher when we visited his original studio on the Tamiami Trail in Big Cypress National Park. His work is mainly black and white photographs. He explains it simply by saying that color photographs impress with vivid colors however we miss the subject matter of the scene. With black and white, we see what is actually present.


Next: Heading northeast on the road to Central Florida. 



Sanibel Island ... Trip Journal #16 … October 26-28, 2018


Sanibel Island, Florida
Trip Journal #16 … October 26-28, 2018

Now driving west and then north, we head to the west coast (of Florida). Using mostly blue highways, we fell in love with this one street. Did I say I loved oak trees?

Sanibel Island 

Sanibel Island is famous as one of the best places in the world to find seashells. Unlike most barrier island on both coasts of Florida that run north-south, this one has an east-west orientation thus saving the shells from being battered by the waves of the gulf. 



Sea shells on beach

As we walked along the beach, we did collect a few … see the picture of the beach at my feet at the high tide mark.



In the late 1800s, land investors arrived at Sanibel Island and made plans to drain the swamps and marshes and build for a projected 95,000 people. The existing residents also began their plans and over the years, they have succeeded commendably. Today only 7,300 people live there and 68% of the island is preserved conservation land.

Conservation Efforts

68% of Island is Conservation Land


Beginning with a famous political cartoonist Jay N. “Ding” Darling, who was also an early conservationist, he was instrumental in blocking the sale of environmentally valuable land to developers. There are now two major conservation groups and multitude smaller ones, including the city of Sanibel. The Sanibel Captiva Conservation Foundation has set aside a third of the island in small isolated acreages all over the island and the residents of Sanibel even voted to tax themselves for funds to purchase and maintain additional land for preservation.

Mangrove Swamp


Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge


The largest is The Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge, established in 1945 by Truman, which covers 33% of the Island that includes Sanibel’s mid-island fresh water wetlands that are everglades-like and mangrove swamps along the bayside of the land.  The visitor center of the Refuge is one beautiful place, entertaining while educating. We learned that there are hundreds of kinds of beautiful ducks and all about Ding.


We went on the tram that runs through the Refuge that traverses all of these natural environments. Alligators, birds of all kinds, iguanas, mangrove crabs and close-in walks through the mangrove swamps were part of this excursion.

More about Mangrove Trees

Mangroves help stabilize the bayside shoreline ever reaching out and actually growing the island with their branches that insert themselves in the ground and their leaves which decay and form soil. Mangrove trees really cannot survive in salt water even though they thrive.

If you lick a leaf, you will find it is very salty; the trees flush out the salt this way.

Mangrove Tree Crab


























Restrooms

Now I do not usually take pictures of toilets. However, designated the most beautiful restrooms in this country the Darling Wildlife Refuge restrooms deserve to be photographed. Some of the pictures show toilets, hand dryers and sink. Outside in the hallway you find yourself underwater if you look up!


 
 











Periwinkle Park

"Pumpkin" Catalina Macaw - South America

Periwinkle RV Park is on Periwinkle Way on Sanibel Island. We responded to a suggestion from a couple we met at Pennekamp State Park in Key Largo. This week is the last week of the off-peak season, rates are $15 less than usual and the RV section is nearly empty. To our surprise, there is also an unpublicized, not-mentioned-anywhere aviary in the center of the park. The Park is home to many exotic birds and 40 different species of waterfowls that live in the two ponds. Migrating birds visit the site also … Blue Heron, Anhinga, Ibis and Egrets. 



 


The owners began their collection of exotic birds in 1964 with unique waterfowl and monkeys; with the care of Libby the bird lady, they are a special treat to come upon.  We were fortunate to meet her and learn a lot about the birds that live here. ‘Pumpkin’ the South American Catalina Macaw is my favorite and she posed willingly for the camera. Enjoy the pictures.


Sunsets Never Fail to Enchant

The east-west orientation of this island also allows for sunsets stenciled by the palms as everything is mostly on the north facing side of the island. We were walking on the south facing side when we took this picture.

Bicycle Trails and Lanes

This area has so much to offer! We left our Coyote in the campground the entire time and only explored by bicycle. There are 25 miles of bike trails … and none of them is in the traffic lanes of a road. We did 30 miles of these trails over two days. All are designated bike lanes, landscaped, and beautiful. Some pass through natural environments set aside by the various preservation groups; others travel through the commercial district, never once being on a street. Moreover, other trails offer views of the wealthier homes. This dolphin picture is one of their mailboxes.



If you find yourself here … do not miss the Rabbit Road trail and the Bailey Tract. This picture with Vicki is the Rabbit Road trail with the road and the Sanibel River on either side.



Dan got a selfie with an alligator (bottom right hand corner of the photo) in the Bailey Tract. 



Next: Art, culture and nature in St. Petersburg. 



Another great feature of the trails is the frequent water fountains along the trails and bike lanes. Even our furry friends are considered. In addition, pedestrians and bicycles always have the right-of-way, as there are no traffic signals in the entire 12-mile stretch of the island.

Sanibel Island’s Name

So charmed by this lovely isle the pirate Jose Gaspar named it after Santa Isabella, the Spanish Queen in the early 1500s. Saint Isabel is the name of the church we attended. Note the difference between the interior of the cathedral we visited in St. Augustine and this modern church. There are many different ways of expression with stained glass.



Monday, October 29, 2018

The Keys of Florida
Journal # 15
October 22-25, 2018

The Keys

The Florida Keys have many descriptions: the third largest barrier coral reef in the world; a string of 822 islands extending into the Gulf of Mexico (30 of them inhabited); 113 miles of coral and limestone. The word Key is derived from the Spanish word 'cayo' which means little island. The original European inhabitants before trains and bridges were wreckers. Wreckers lived on the revenues from collecting treasure from the numerous shipwrecks that occurred along the Gulf Stream where it moved quite close to the shores here. Some even lured ships too close to the coral reefs and then offered to help them for an enormous cut of their cargo.

The Keys are reached by only one road, therefore it is easy to find things; their mile markers indicate them. This reminds us of the Alaska Highway Milepost travel guide. As for parking in Key West … fellow Roadtrekers … the secret is the post office. For $15 for three hours, we can fit into one of their spots with our 210 backing in over the grass landscaping.


Bridges and the Strongest Hurricane

Forty-six bridges over 126 miles connect the Keys. Driving south towards the Florida Keys the first thing we noticed are the concrete barriers on the highway entering the Keys. Found all over the U.S. these particular iconic road dividers are unique. They are indicators of the color code for the keys. Found on the buildings and houses and walls … everywhere. Aquamarine to reflect the water...sky blue to mimic the sky and sandy beige to pick up the beach hues.

The longest bridge is the 7-Mile bridge (mile markers 47 to 40), which is amusing to travel.

However, most interesting is the parallel bridge built by Henry Flagler in the early 1900’s. A railroad bridge that connected all the islands, it has quite a history and several stories about its construction.



Most poignant is the 115 WWI veterans who were working on the bridge and canals in 1935. The strongest hurricane in history … a category 5 … hit there and killed over 500 people in all. There was little advance warning as good technology was not available at that time (no satellites). There is a memorial of that event at mm 82.


Key West Mile Zero


We drove straight without stopping to the end at Key West to Mile 0 on our first day there. This week was the famous Fantasy Fest … an adult themed party that includes party-party-party with quite a few very creative body paint displays. Sorry, no pictures … this is a G-rated Journal.



Sunset at Mallory Square in Key West

Every night is always a celebration of the sunset on Key West. Street entertainers and live musicians gather to honor this awesome event.  We are overwhelmed with the beauty of the sunset over the Gulf. Therefore, here are many pictures. I took these pictures ... honest.

😏









Dolphin Research Center 

There are five different dolphin encounter sites on the keys listed in the Islamorada guide. Our research brings us to decide on the Dolphin Research Center at mm 59. Staffed by researchers and college students, this education facility proves to be just right for us. There is much personal staff interaction and close up connections with the dolphins.




John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park

We were fortunate to have secured three nights at this campground. We booked it last June. We understand that was rare to have found room as many of the Florida Keys sites need to be booked at least 10 months ahead; two of the state parks in the keys are still closed after Hurricane Irma of 11 months ago.


This park is more than a campground! It is the an undersea park with 178 nautical square miles of National Marine Sanctuary with coral reefs, seagrass beds and mangrove swamps. They offer several snorkeling, scuba and boating opportunities as well as nature walks, swimming beaches, fishing and walking paths. The ibis are like squirrels ... looking for food.

There is also an Aquarium. 


The coral reef of the Marine Sanctuary is replicated in the aquarium.

The Lobsters are fascinating.


One of the worst invasive fish species is the Lionfish. Magnificently colored, it is predatory reef fish adorned with intricate stripes and venomous barbs at the end of its long, fan-like fins.  They have no natural predators and naturalists are encouraging us to find them in restaurants and eat them, becoming the first predator of Lionfish. They are alarmed that this beautiful fish that feed on small herbivorous fish thus decimating the local ecosystem.       

This Lionfish is admiring herself in the glass of your tank.








Pennekamp Visitor 

Rev. Hoyt, pastor emeritus, is 91 years of age and is proud of his bike which is 80 years old. Dan struck an interesting conversation with him about the bike and the Lord. His favorite pastime is to visit with young people who are drawn to him (and his bike). His business card does all the preaching.

Glass Bottom Boat tour

Out of Pennekamp Park, we took the Glass Bottom Boat Tour, which ventured out the three miles in the Atlantic Ocean to the coral reef. It is fascinating to see all the creatures that inhabit the coral. There were some jokes about a three-hour tour, but we returned to shore just fine. Can I be Ginger?

Susan talking about the Mahogany Tree












Pennekamp Nature Walk

Nature walks are a part of Pennekamp’s charms led by naturalists. Susan Kolterman was our guide and she was amazing … her knowledge and ability to communicate it made the walk most absorbing.

We learned about all the trees of Florida. Some we loved are the Poisonwood (leaves nasty rashes when touched), Mahogany, the Banyan, the Strangler Fig, the Mangrove, and the Gumbo Limbo. Elsewhere we have posted the Ficus Altimus.

Poisonwood Tree


Gumbo Limbo Tree








We saw a Julia Butterfly and a sweet blue morning glory. Morning glories are white where we live in Colorado and are invasive ... to be purged.





This red bug was also a mystery to our guide. Sabrina is our family ecologist. Sabrina: can you find out what this is?


The Blue Hole

The Blue Hole is an abandoned rock quarry now filled with fresh water and alligators, birds, snakes, iguanas and deer.
In the Key Deer National Refuge lives the tiny race of white-tailed deer that stand only 26-32 inches at the shoulder, the size of a large dog. Endangered, the Refuge at mm 30 helps protect a portion of the deer’s vanishing habitat.



We did not see any deer, but the pond did reveal a friendly alligator in the foot trail that goes out to the Blue Hole.

A note about National Wildlife Refuges –created to protect and conserve Americans wild plants, fish, animals and their habitats, there are 255 of them in the U.S. The one we visited on Oct 18 north of the Keys, Pelican Island, was the first one established in 1903 by Theodore Roosevelt.





Lobster and Whale

Just a touch of whimsy. Lobster is at mm 86 (a bit larger than Dan who is standing in front of it). The Whale is a mural on a shopping center at mm 50.



Sharks & Tarpons at Robbie’s

Robbie’s Marina at mm 77.5 is home to hundreds of Tarpons and occasional sharks that come right up to the docks waiting to be fed.

We ventured out to this oddity and offering only a few dollars we had fish in our hand to participate in this ritual. Luckily for us, today there were quite a number of sharks.

Tarpon

Tarpon and Sharks





 NEXT

While bicycling around Pennekamp, Park we visited with a couple who had come from the west coast (of Florida) and shared with us a campground on Sanibel Island that was at off-season rates until the end of October.  We returned that evening to our campsite and planned our next expedition.