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Friday, October 7, 2016

Wonders of the Homeland

Friday, October 7, 2016
Monhegan Island, Maine, United States
Wonders of the Homeland 
October 4-7 finds us traveling south through New Brunswick, we enter the U.S. of A. (remembering that Canada is also in North America). So much to experience, so many places to go, such wonders abound … now to the homeland and discover more marvels. 
 Maine
So many people recommended Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island, we made it our goal and we are not disappointed. An unusual combination of ocean and mountain scenery, the largest part of the island, the park is crowded for the beginning of October. The locals say it is the "peepers" coming up from the 'big' cities. The colors of autumn lure everyone outdoors. The highlights of our three-day stay are the trails, the shore, and a four-mast schooner. 

Acadia Park – Sailing the open Seas
Choosing the sailing of the day that includes a park ranger for entertainment and elucidation, we find a day of clear skies, gentle winds and cool air. Perfect! Sailing on the Margaret Todd Schooner.  The four main sails of the replica of a 150-year-old schooner have to be physically hauled up with ropes threaded through pulleys. Dan joins in, as these massive sails require many hands … he’s in the picture … center withready and white jacket. Such a wonderful experience sailing out into the Atlantic Ocean and so much fun to take part in the way schooners traveled in the last century. The crew included young people and we enjoyed watching them work when it was time to turn the sails. The young girl’s name was not Jackie, but we named her that after the series of books “Bloody Jack”, the stories of a young girl who, disguised as a boy, became a ship’s boy on 18th century sailing ships. Visiting with this 23 year old, we discovered she is taking a gap year from college, saving her money and plans to go, with other young people, to Thailand and the seas thereabouts to travel, explore and hopefully work on some ships. Talk about carpe diem … these youngsters are grabbing it.  














Bike with a Ranger in Acadia

There are 127 miles of hiking trails and 45 miles of graded carriage trails (no autos allowed). Built in the 1930s by John Rockefeller, Jr. the carriage trails wind through some gorgeous valleys, lakes, ponds and low mountains (there are 15 peaks on the island forested with spruce, fir and pine). Which one to choose? Then we found a program called Bike with a Ranger. Perfect! We met the rangers and eight other bicyclists at Duck Brook Bridge. The bridge was built in 1929.

We circled Witch Pond for about 3 miles stopping along the way for interpretive discussions and photo opportunities. There are some serious beaver work in this picture. This entire pond was dammed by the beavers and all the deciduous trees removed, eaten, or built into a beaver home. (They don't like pines and firs). See the home in the center-left side of the picture. The bike ride revealed much color and autumnal splendor.
 


The shore of Acadia Park 
The village of Bar Harbor (ba-haba) is set at the wharf and is a shopper’s delight. However, we do not shop. However, we did explore some and walked along the shore at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean (actually Frenchman’s Bay). Huge mansions, opulent hotels skirted the beautiful rocky shore. We did stop for lunch before sailing the schooner and had such delicious Lobster Rolls and Fish and Chips. 


We camped at a great campground, Hadley's Point Campground on the island and again made friends ... meet Captain Jack and Thea ... they are King Shepherds and weigh about 100 pounds. 


Another Island in Maine – Monhegan Island
As we live in land-locked Colorado, islands and shores, lakes and oceans have been our theme this trip. Recommended by our friends Randy and Kristi, we headed out to Monhegan Island off the coast of Maine, north of Portland. As an added pleasure, we met with a long time friend, Gloria Kelly who moved from Woodland Park to Maine some 12 years ago. We joined her and two friends, Judy and Susan, on the ferry bound for the island. Vicki finally found her puffin (The rest had migrated and left this fella behind)   
 This is a prime island: Isolated, with not much in amenities (not even public restrooms); no cars or roads, an artist’s haven (Andrew Wyeth); and replete with rocky shores, high cliffs, crashing waves, a lighthouse and wood shingle houses; and cathedral-high trees on the walking paths. We spent the day, hiking, climbing rocks, skidding down slopes and taking pictures and collecting island dirt. In the cathedral woods, we discovered many little fairy houses (look to the right of the tree). The fairies were peeping out at us, I am sure, but we missed seeing them.

Abundant thanks to the ladies for including us on your adventure !!!





A special sunset as we left the island.
  


Next: 400 miles of highways … leaving the Atlantic shore behind … avoiding major cities … pointed west!

What We Discovered

Hadley's Point Campground - 33 Hadley Point Road, Bar Harbor, United States

Sunday, October 2, 2016


Serendipity and Metaphor

Sunday, October 2, 2016
Hopewell Cape, New Brunswick, Canada
Serendipity and Metaphor
 It is all new … new Found Land, new Scotland and New Brunswick. However, for us it was about the old … old places in our heritage, old tombstones and old spots among the new ... old trees and old growth forests … old villages and old forts. Moreover, old mysteries … in Halifax, we found on our walks a small labyrinth at St. Matthew's United Church. Such an obscure point in so many things to do and see … yet it beckoned and I walked it. Finding a moment of otherness in the world of the tangible.
A metaphor for our trip; It’s the minor moments and little objects that catch our attention and  stay with us in our memories, like the people and the unexpected turns and corners that appear and call us to stop and attend. This happens a lot and the trick is to pay attention and respond … or forever miss the heart of the pilgrimage. It creates space that enhances awareness, encouraging flexibility in our plans and leads us to surrender to the numinous moments in our lives.
Some examples ….
·         The tiny labyrinth in a large city.
·         The surprising colors changing and indeed splendid … in one tree, we found both red and gold.
·         A statue in the middle of a quiet garden … Evangeline is a poem written by Robert Lewis Stevenson about the Great Upheaval of the Acadians – deported from their homes by the British in 1755 – 1763… found at Grand Pre, NS, near Pictou.
·         The Acadian Flag is the French flag with a star.
·         Ducks are inscrutable and we found them always in mating pairs.
·         Friendly people who made the places special by their presence and eagerness to share.
·         Hunting in 3 stores for a little camp stool and failing … then finding the perfect stool at a flea market.
·         Rivers that run backwards.

Nova Scotia
GRAND-PRÉ NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE
Evangeline is a Poem by HW Longfellow about the Great Upheaval ... the expulsion from Nova Scotia of the Acadians. This statue is in this site. Grand-Pré is a powerful monument that unites the Acadian people. Visitors to the site will uncover the tale of Le Grand Dérangement: a tragic event in Acadian history that has shaped the vibrant culture of modern-day Acadians across the globe through its quiet but powerful renaissance. The site commemorates the Grand Pré area as a centre of Acadian settlement from 1682 to 1755 and the Deportation of the Acadians, which began in 1755 and continued until 1762. For many Acadians throughout the world, the site remains the heart of their ancestral homeland and the symbol of the ties that unite them to this day.
Digby
On our heritage search in Digby, Nova Scotia, we stopped in a small gift shop and met Wendy, who wanted to talk about her town where she was born and raised and now owned this shop. We talked about French ancestors and then she mentioned the graveyard tour in Annapolis Royal.  Despite not liking to drive in the dark, Dan drove us north about half an hour away and we arrived at the appointed spot at 8:30 … pitch dark, behind a small museum, alone, on the edge of the little town. Not confident we were even at the right place or the right time, we agreed to leave by 9:15 p.m. if no one showed up. At exactly 9:15 p.m., an ancient Acadian clothed in mourning apparel appeared carrying a couple of candle lanterns. 
 Alan Melanson, 10th generation Acadian, descended from Acadians who ran into the forest to escape the Great Upheaval, protected by the Mi’kmaq natives. As other people arrived, our guide provided lanterns for each and we walked through the graveyard hearing stories of the ancestors. A large portion of the graveyard had no markers; Acadian graves were originally marked with wooden crosses. The British did not desecrate the place, but the markers were allowed to fall into ruin and disappear. This was an experience to remember … a response to the serendipity. 
Tidal Bore on the Shubenacadie River  Our last stop in Nova Scotia took us to Maitland to watch the tidal bore surge up the Shubenacadie River and its red clay slopes ... between Maitland and Truro. Two sets of pictures here. These are before and after pictures of the same place.
At the Tidal Interpretive Center, the guide was delighted to explain the bore’s tidal action and walked out with us to point out what to see and what was happening. The bore was not large; what was significant was watching the river change from a placid barely moving downstream direction to a rapidly running river in the opposite direction … backwards … as the bore coursed up the river. In addition … the level of the river quickly rose about 25 feet in just a half-hour! Such fun to watch! 
The first two photos are before and after the bore … same place … before the tidal bore you can see a drainage ditch feeding into the river. The second shot is a motorized rafter sailing through after the tidal bore. The drainage ditch is now a river flowing in reverse. The first picture is the river before the tidal bore… Note the red clay muddy slopes of the river in the distance and to the left.  High tide on the right taken after the tidal bore came through.
 







New Brunswick
Another moment of surprise and serendipity happened as we crossed the border between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Pulling into the visitor center about 6:30 p.m. we found it closed. Nevertheless, we walked around the building and discovered the most unusual walking path in Sackville Waterfowl Park. The salt marshes that are everywhere are not good for agriculture, but if diked, drained, and filled with fresh water, this small city turned it into a waterfowl refuge that can host up to 160 different species of birds at migratory times. Not only a natural refuge, they also added up to 3 miles of paths and boardwalks around it, and through it, for the human types to wander and explore. Even though it was dusk … we yielded to the appeal of the wild and set out on the path.




Hopewell Rocks – Flower Pots and Forty-Foot Tides
The tides around here do not just lap at the shore … they rise 25 to 40 feet pulling away at the rocks, equally claiming the land and depositing new rocks and critters. Hopewell Rocks are a favorite visit for visitors on the south shore of New Brunswick. It also provides what it promises. At low tide, you can walk out on the extensive shore line for a mile or two along the coastline, strolling among numerous 50 feet tall structures called flowerpots … formed by erosion of loose material around granite … with tall trees growing on top. Returning a few hours later, you find that the flowerpots are nearly under water... appearing as tiny islands in the sea. With our Coyote Roadtrek, this was so convenient. We walk out the stunning trail to the cliffs and down the stair steps to the muddy shore and explore for an hour or so before the incoming tide, nipping at our heels, hastens us back up the cliffs.  We return to our Coyote and lunch, nap, read and write … and a few hours later, return once again to experience the phenomena, as all is underwater at high tide. 
These two pictures are of the very same place … at low tide and then at high tide, a rise of 40 feet.
Lobster in New Brunswick … Our little Coyote in my left hand wasn't scared at all ... being so near the claw. Be calm and hold on.








October in New Brunswick, Canada.






Next: The good ol’ U S of A

What We Discovered

Grand Pre National Historic Site , Grand Pre, Nova Scotia, Canada
2205 Grand-Pré Road, Grand Pré, Bay of Fundy & Annapolis Valley
Annapolis Royal Graveyard Tours. Fort Anne National Historic Site in Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia http://www.tourannapolisroyal.com/graveyard.html
Sackville Waterfowl Park, Sackville, New Brunswick
https://sackville.com/residents/parks-and-recreation/our-parks/
 Comments
So beautifully written! From Jennifer Benjamin, on Oct 11, 2016 at 05:44PM

Thank you. From Dan & Vicki, on Oct 12, 2016 at 11:43AM

You captured Nova Scotia, she will forever stay in your heart. She is forever my home. I can hardly wait to see some of the places that are on my bucket list ... like the Tidal Bore I want to ride it in ... From Wendy, on Dec 8, 2016 at 01:55PM