Newfoundland 1 - Icebergs and Whales
Icebergs and Whales ???
NO … sorry, there are no icebergs
and whales in the north of Newfoundland … in
September. They have both wandered east into the North Atlantic Ocean. We've
been teased by dozens of signs offering Iceberg & Whale Quests out into the
Ocean. Alas, to see them we have to Google it. May and June would be the months
to experience them.
However … what we have encountered
has been so spectacular that I find myself struggling for words to describe. Here
goes! At the outset, it is time to number these journals. Newfoundland is so magnificent
that we can only share a little bit at a time, so this being the first one so numbered; Newfoundland 1.
We landed at 6:30 in the morning
as the sun rose and immediately headed north with the goal being to get to Gros
Morne National Park, find a place to stay and take a long nap. Ferry travel at night
is not conducive to sleep. The drive is beautiful but distracting … the wind is
fierce. The picture of the flag displays its strength, flapping so hard the end
is blurry.
The ferry docked at Port Aux Basques
on the southwest tip of the Rock. Newfoundland (best pronunciation we could find
was 'Nuu-fin-land’ with emphasis on the land). The picture at the ferry dock best
shows why this land is called the rock. However, we see lots of Spruces and Firs.
What are the roads like here?
Well, they are much like England: they drive on the left side of the road and in
Newfoundland they drive on what’s left of the road. They’ve found that it is more
cost efficient to post a sign that says "Potholes Ahead" than actually
fixing the potholes. Kinda like Alaska also.
Anchors Aweigh
We find a nice little private campground
in Rocky Harbour and settle in. Theater
and music are found all over the Island and in Rocky Harbour there is a little group
called Anchors Aweigh. Anchors Aweigh Music Revue at the Ocean View Pub in
Rocky Harbour at Gros Morne National Park
We get the last tickets available
and are entertained by such talented musicians and comedians that are a wonderful
beginning to this island-province adventure. We are laughing and clapping by the
third song.
A Little Geography
This picture of a stylized map
is not only fun, but it gives you an idea of where we go. At the bottom left hand
corner you can find the ferry at Channel-Port aux Basques . See the lobster halfway up the west coast … that’s
Gros Morne National Park. At the tip
top north is a Viking Ship. We do go up there … (more later). Across the center
of the province is a good road. The only way east and west which we take, however,
you will see we take a few side roads off this one.
Gros Morne
Newfoundland is an expanse of coves,
bights, tickles, lakes, ponds, bays, brooks, inlets, rivers, and arms … all which
indicate water; and capes, points, islands, harbours, causeways, bridges and docks
… all spaces that bond with water in some way. For us Coloradans who are land locked
in the middle of the states, we are intoxicated with all this water. W head for
the boats. Niagara Falls Maid of the Mist into the falls, Flowerpot Island boat,
Ferry to NL … and now a boat that ventures up a fjord.
Although this boat is more challenging. To get to the boat requires
almost a two-mile hike to the dock. Before we venture out, at the parking lot we
discover another Roadtrek. There is a bond instantly as we meet Carol, who has found
her way here from San Dimas, California. A fascinating lady and we share this adventure
with her. That’s Carol and Dan in the picture.
The hike out to the dock is necessary
because what was once a glacier-formed fjord had been blocked from the Gulf of St.
Lawrence by a lifting of the land and the formation of a bog. Dead plants have piled
up here for about 8,000 years. This isn’t just a giant compost heap! Bog water is
cold and acidic, and contains almost no oxygen. Decay stops. Stems, leaves, and
pollen become pickled in the peat. There is almost four metres (13 feet!) of peat
now. The bog is higher than the surrounding ridges and each year grows a bit higher
and wider. The hike in itself is a wonder! A tentative foot ventured off of the
boardwalk reveals a spongy surface.
The fjord is spectacular. So many
impressive, breathtaking sights to see. So
…in the next issue of this blog I will share the trip up the fjord. … Stay tuned
for "Newfoundland 2 – Fjords and Vikings
The boat at Western Brook Pond
is at the end of two mile easy walk. We are hiking to this boat which will take
us into the canyon … seen at the right far distance.
What We Discovered
https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/nl/grosmorne/info
WESTERN BROOK
POND BOAT TOUR
The boat tour
can be reached via Route 430, 27 kilometres north of Rocky Harbour
http://www.bontours.ca/tour/western-brook-pond-boat-tour/
Comments
Sounds fantastic! From Tom Stella, on Sep
19, 2016 at 12:05AM
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