South East Florida – Everglades, Everglades City, Big Cypress
October 18-21, 2018
Trip Journal #14
These four days are resplendent with alligators, egrets and herons, great meals, impressive art and unusual fruit. In addition, we experienced bizarre structures and a renewed friendship with a family member.
D*** Freeways

Family
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Manny, Courtney, Evelyn and Dan |
Visiting her here has strengthened that age-old tie and cemented our family connection. A great tour guide who knows the best restaurants, quaint places, everglades walks and art galleries and shares her hometown of Homestead with pride, Evelyn exudes friendship and affection.
Clyde Butcher
Our first excursion is out on the famous Tamiami highway that travels through the Big Cypress National Park. Stops along the way include the Clyde Butcher Big Cypress Gallery where he used to live. His enormous photographs celebrate the beauty of the Everglades … taken for over a quarter of a century. Walking through his gallery is a moving experience. To honor and respect his work, I took no pictures although I was sorely tempted to purchase a few. Google him to see his work which includes scenes from all over Florida.Big Cypress and Alligators
Big Cypress National Park borders the Everglades on the north side and is part of the wilderness and wildlife refuge of these two enormous parks that protect the south end of the state. One of the visitor centers draws not only visitors but also alligators … we saw many of these intriguing creatures.Everglades City
Tamiami is a contraction of Tampa and Miami and reflects the beginning and end of this amazing highway that traverses swamps and canals and rivers in the Big Cypress National Park.At the bend of Tamiami highway on the west coast is the charming village of Everglades City. Lunch at the Rod & Gun Restaurant was leisurely, picturesque and yummy. This place built in 1864 has a long history of various uses.
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View from our table at the Rod & Gun Restaurant |

Robert Is Here
Actually, ‘Robert Is Here’ is the name of a captivating fruit stand. We found unusual fruits and produce as well as a small animal collection behind the building.


Breakfast at the Royal Palm
Two mornings found us at the Royal Palm Grill. Literally a hole-in-the-wall spot, it was packed with people and offered the absolute best cooking. They have two locations a couple of blocks from each other; we visited both. My order was fried grouper with eggs and hash browns. Dan had the pancakes and eggs.Everglades National Park
Naturalist Marjory Stoneman Douglas said, “The Everglades is a test. If we pass, we may get to keep the planet.” All of us who have never been to the Everglades have a wellspring of ideas as to what it really is. However, being here and experiencing it washes that all away. I quote from the brochure: “It is also the largest subtropical wilderness in the U.S., an international Biosphere Reserve, a World Heritage Site, and a Wetland of International Importance.“It is a mosaic of marshes and mangrove forests where salt and fresh water merge. There are sawgrass prairies immersed in water and hardwood forests on slightly elevated land. There are immense lakes and 10,000 islands.
We walked some boardwalk trails and took a tour boat into the interior. Beautiful birds, incredible mangroves acres, and huge lakes present themselves for our wonderment.
On the boat tour, we navigated through manmade canals, natural rivers, Coot Bay, and Whitewater Bay. Whitewater is a hundred miles long in the center of the Everglades. The entire size of this area is extraordinary.
Coral Castle
The Coral used in these structures is actually limestone quarried from the naturally occurring bedrock of this area. However, this is not the heart of this place. Ed Leedskalnin constructed this little paradise of coral by himself at night using what he explained as the secrets of the pyramids and the knowledge of weights and leverage. Amazingly, he was only 5 feet tall and 100 pounds.

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